For much of the 20th century, the deli was an iconic institution in both Jewish and American life, a kind of homeland for the soul—with pickles on the side. Today, after a long period of being considered hopelessly old-fashioned, the Jewish deli is experiencing a resurgence. Ted Merwin, author of Pastrami on Rye: An Overstuffed History, discusses the past, present, and future of the deli in an age of ethnic nostalgia, sustainability, and artisanal food and drink.